So what should you do if you’re larger than a K cup?

The K cup bra market has expanded a lot in the past six years. Unfortunately, it seems to be some kind of a last frontier. So, if you happen to need a larger cup: what are your options? The way I see it you can choose between going braless, wearing ill-fitting bras, altering your bras, wearing custom-made bras… and  wearing one of the few bras on the market available in a KK or L cup. If you know of any option other than those listed below, please mention them in the comments and I’ll edit the post as needed.

Going braless

For most women in that size range, it is not really a 24/7 option! However, if you feel more comfortable braless for lounging, I don’t see why you shouldn’t! Be sure to check out the Lingerie addict’s post about going braless.

Wearing an ill-fitting bra

Due to the serious lack of options, it can prove litteraly impossible to find a ready-made bra in the right size and cut. I can understand your frustration, when told that you shouldn’t compromise on fit, but wearing an ill-fitting bra is the least satisfaying option, so please consider one of the suggestions below and don’t get discouraged if it takes you a bit longer than other women to find a good fit. Fitting very large cups is challenging, but it is worth it!

Ready-made bras:

Panache offers the Melody both in a balconette and a full cup version up to a KK in band sizes 30 to 40. It is the successor to the Harmony featured below, which has been discontinued but can be found on the cheap on eBay.

Bras I hate and love has great reviews of both the Harmony and the Melody balconettes, so I won’t go into details, but basically they’re supposed to be the similar, but most people find it fits them differently. Both are pretty decent bras if you can wear wide wires. You will probably need to alter the center gore (I know I do!), but it is an easy fix as the bra is a partial band. The balconette is quite open on top (No quadboob, yay!) and the center gore is quite low compared to other balconettes.

 

It is a pity that Panache was quite quick in offering a KK option, but hasn’t launched any other models in this size. However, because of its very accomodating lacy stretch, you might find that you can get away with the very popular Jasmine in a K cup if you need a KK.

Bravissimo was also quite early in offering its best-selling Alana bra up to an L cup in band sizes 32-40 and up to a KK in band size 30 (the 28 only goes up to a J), but like Panache, they haven’t come out with a lot in this size range afterwards. They did have the Oriental Bloom, which I’ve reviewed last summer, but it quickly sold out. Let’s hope it encourages them to bring out more models! As for the Alana, there are countless reviews on Bravissimo website, but the things to bear in mind are that it fits small in the cup, so that most people have to go up one cup size, that it offers very good support and that the rigid top panel might not be ideal for full on top breasts and might create quadboob.

Also consider trying bras which are known to run large in the cup and/or small in the band. Such bras include Cleo Chloe (both large in the cup and smallish in the band), Cleo Alexa, Bravissimo Dotty spot (large in the cup, especially the aqua/red version), Curvy Kate swimwear…

Custom-made bras

Now, made to measure bras might be out of you price range, but some company will let you custom order sizes that they don’t sell enough to mass produce.

You can order PL bras (padded plunges) from Ewa Michalak up to a 75LL (34LL) and sister sizes. You’ll have to send her an email, pay an extra fee and your bra won’t be returnable. Figuring out your Ewa Michalak size is no easy task. I would advise against using the caculator they have on their website and go with your usual band size. Most people find they have to go up one or two cup sizes in the PL. (I need to go up two). Ewa Michalak has also launched a padded balconette, but it is only available up to a 70KK (32KK) and sister sizes, so for once, you are in luck if you need a smaller band. Bras and body image just made a comparison on how both styles fit her. On me, the PL gives the dreaded “basketball shape” when new, that is perfectly round with no visible apex, but it takes a more natural shape (still very round and uplifted, but not as cartoonish) after a few wear and washes.

Louise Ferdinand is an independant designer based in the UK. All the pieces are handmade in the UK, so the price point is a bit higher than what I normally spend on a bra, but I love the clean classic style of the brand and the lovely material that they use. I’ve reviewed their Angelina set last year. You can custom order any bra in JJ-KK cup by e-mailing the company.

If you can afford it, made-to-measure bras are an awesome option. Bespoke is usually costly, but the price range can vary quite a bit between big names and your local corset-maker. Bridal shops are a good place to explore in a search for an affordable bra-maker.

Altering your bras

Sister sizing means that the cup volume of 30KK bra is equivalent to the one of a 32K, 34JJ 36J… you get my drift. You can get a bra with the cup volume you need in a larger band size and alter the band to fit your body. However, I would advise only going one or two band bigger than your actual size, because 1) it will be easier to evaluate cup volume when trying it on and 2)altering a 36 band bra to fit a 30 band frame usually implies also altering the straps, not to mention that the cup might be too tall for you.

There are lots of tutorials around on how to make your bra band smaller, move the straps’position, and take in the center gore. Bratabase lits a few of these and more here.

If sewing is not your thing, you might want to get acquainted with a good seamstress, or you could chose the lazy way and use a Rixie clip like I do with my Cleo.

Finally

For inspiration, blogs from ladies who sometimes need to cross the K cup threshold:

Curvywordy

Weirdly shaped and well photographed

Coming up, a poll on what K+ women really want… Stay tuned.

Strong links

I came across quite a few really good booby posts recently, so I thought I’d share some cool links.

The first one is not that recent, but I missed it when it first came out for some reason. Do my ribs look big in this? is a guest post on Voluptuouslythin that attacks the idea that only very fat women wear 34+ band. I love it! Just like the bra band project, it is more proof that you can’t guess someone band size based on their dress size.

Brittany from Thin and Curvy had not posted in a while. She’s back with a DD atelier review, looking as gorgeous as ever in every outfit. And the post has a code for a 10% off coupon on DD atelier items.

XL Hourglass had a little alteration experiment, stiffening the cups of her Ewa Michalak PL bra. Have a look at the results!

Bravissimo Pretty as a Pin-up review

I’ve renewed my bra wardrobe recently and one of my new pick was Bravissimo Pretty as a Pin up bra. Full cup bras can be very supportive. Sadly this often comes at the expense of style. Bravissimo is doing a great job producing non-matronly full cup bras. I just wish they came up to an L cup, like the Alana. Anyway, me being a sucker for polka dot, I couldn’t pass on this little number.

It is supposed to be modeled after Bravissimo Melrose bra. I wouldn’t know about that, as this is the first full cup Bravissimo bra I’ve tried. What stroke me the most about this bra is how narrow the wires are, compared to other styles from the brand. So if you struggle with too wide wires, you might want to give this bra a try. They’re a bit narrower than I’d like but not painfully so. If fact, the whole bra is very comfortable even for a long day.

Secondly, the white lace panel pushes down the upper part of my boobs a little, so they don’t look their perkiest and I get in quadboob situations on my bigger days, but the shape is fine on my smaller days. For this reason, I wouldn’t advise this bra if you’re very full on top.  Still,  I love the firm secure feeling I get from this bra… And the narrow center gore that actually touches my sternum, quite a feat for a full cup! It would tack perfectly if it came in a larger cup.

In short, I love the look, support and comfort, like the fit and am ok about the shape. Also, the matching panties are adorable. Not bad!

Dear Bravissimo

I love you. You know I do. As a retailer, you have the best customer service ever and before launching your own brand, you worked with manufacturers so that they took into account customers’needs and wants. As a manufacturer, you deliver lots of options in larger cup sizes every season and your pieces take up more than half of my lingerie drawer! So, what else could you do to please me? Well, since you’ve asked…

1)You’ve led the way on the size expansion front by offering the Alana up to an L cup. Last summer, the Oriental Bloom, also available up to an L, was a success. Keep them coming! I understand that developing models in a larger cup requires some engineering and I’m not expecting you to come up with L cup half-cup bras next season, but surely some models could be made to fit a larger chest? First in line should be your excellent Inspire sports bra, which, like the Alana, comes up a bit small in the cup. And beyond balconettes, you could maybe work on a L cup full cup, since your full cup bras work really well in a K. (Watch out for a review of Pretty as a Pin up!)

2) Please please please, offer more H+ bras and bikinis in a 28 band. Stock up on brands who produce them (and I must cheer on Tutti Rouge for starting up with such a comprehensive range!) and provide them in your own brand, like you did with your new Ring of roses.

Tutti Rouge Liliana bra available in 28-38 DD-J

3) Bring back the Dotty Spot! I tried the Laurel. It’s a nice bra. It has a smooth fabric like the Dotty Spot. But the Dotty Spot it isn’t.

4) Keep up the good work! You’re awesome!

XOXO

Les Gros Bonnets

The bra band project is now a website

Once upon a time, a group of awesome bra bloggers created the bra band project, a flickr album to prove manufacturers the need for sub-32 band bras. It has now evolved into a full website and is taking submissions from users of all band sizes.

You can learn more about this on Boosaurus:

http://www.boosaurus.com/2013/04/announcing-expanded-bra-band-project.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+Boosaurusbras+%28Boosaurus%21%29

Cleo Chloe and Rixie clip review

I’ve been curious about the Rixie clip bra band tightener ever since Caroline Curvywordy discovered it. Unfortunately, it only exist in a 2 hooks version right now and all my bras have 3 hooks. On the other hand, Cleo by Panache is a brand I’ve been meaning to try for a while, but sadly they don’t produce my size. Their bras happen to come with two hooks only.

I had read that Cleo by Panache’s Chloe ran big in the cup and small in the band, so that the 36J fitted more like a 36JJ/34K. So, when I came across a cheap Cleo Chloe in a 38J, I figured it was a good opportunity to try out both Cleo and the Rixie clip.

Even though the spacing of the hooks on the Rixie clip was smaller than on my bra, I’m happy to report that the whole operation was a success! I managed to get the band tight enough without any discomfort.

As for the bra…

Cleo is known to give a round uplifted shape and to be suitable for close-set boobs. I was a bit worried, because – and I know I’m in the minority here-  I don’t like my breasts to look too round, as I find the effect somewhat comical. Thankfully, I didn’t get the dreaded “basketballs under my shirt” look, but a nice compact upfront and uplifted shape, rounded, but not perfectly round with no visible apex.

I feel secure in the bra and while the wires are certainly not as wide as on Panache Superbra, they are wide enough to fully encase all breast tissue. I also like that the bra is quite open on top, avoiding any quadboob situation.

I am not a big fan of floral prints, but I sort of like the girly blue and pink color scheme.

 

The only negative point, as far as I’m concerned is that the thin band might prove a bit uncomfortable after some time. A wider band with three hooks and eyes would allow a better distribution of the weight of the breasts.

In any case, after this experience, I’m quite interested in getting my hands on a Meg or better yet a red Marcie (so pretty!), as they are both supposed to run large as well. This will have to wait a little as my lingerie drawer has seen some other new additions. Expect a few reviews shortly!

 

H+ picks from Bravissimo

I make no secret of my love affair with Bravissimo, both as a retailer and as a manufacturer. The new spring collection unveiled today did not disappoint, with lots of options for the H+ cup gals.

I’ve been desperately looking for a replacement for the past few months, cursing myself for not stocking up and… The Dotty Spot is back! Well not exactly the Dotty Spot… my all time favourite has lost its polka dot for the Laurel version. I personally don’t find the leafy/floral pastel print very exciting, but I’ll still get it for the uplift, support and comfort. And I believe that this shade might be flattering for a variety of skintones.

I’ll get my polka dot fix with the aptly named Pretty as a Pin up bra. Based on the Melrose, this is a definitely non-dowdy full cup bra.

Another great news is the introduction of PJ top in HH-J cup. My preference goes to the red.

The Inspire Sports bra (available up to a K cup, which had been discontinued is making a come back.

Bravissimo is adding a new hot pink number to its collection of plunge bras available up to a J cup, the Dixie. How cute is the asymetrical print on the central bow?

When it comes to swimwear, I love this red gingham bikini.

Finally, my only pick from another brand is the überadorable Melissa from Cleo, which goes up to a J cup.

If you want some of this in a JJ or K cup, go sign the petition !

Dressing tips for a top heavy figure: make it work!

“No woman ever wants to look bigger.”

“No woman wants their hips to look bigger.”

“No woman wants “delayed” and “canceled” written on her crotch.”

Fair enough, they might have a point with that last quote, but Project Runway judges make a lot of assumptions with the first two statements. Seriously, slimmer does not equal better. And I’m not adverse to adding a little oomph to my hip area once in a while. Maybe that’s why I keep on considering Urkye’s Kieska dress and its hip-boosting pockets.

I love how a rounder set of hips make your waist look smaller and balances out your bust.  Big pockets, puffy circle skirts and strategically placed peplums are various ways to achieve this effect.

Another expression of the thinner is better mentality is the common advice to wear an empire waistline “because the underbust is the smallest part of your body”.

First, I doubt that is true of most women, even those who are not hourglass and yes, even those who carry a little extra in their midsection. I’m overweight, I tend to gain weight in my middle and my waist measurement is still an inch smaller than my underbust. Unless your belly sits rather high, I think it is more frequent to have a waist measurement equal to your underbust than larger.

Second, even if your underbust is actually significatively smaller than your waist and that makes it your smallest bit in absolute terms, I’d rather focus on proportions. If you’re top heavy, your proportionnaly smallest part is your hips, which you might want to play up (with something hip-hugging like a shift dress) or down (as indicated above). If you chose to emphasize how narrow your hips are, you might want to balance your upper body with something like a trumpet hemline.

Finally, you might remember that infamous episode of Project Runway (season 9 episode 3 also known as the worst challenge ever), where the models walked on stilts. Well, on a top heavy figure, an empire waist might give the illusion that your breasts are sitting directly on your legs and that you’re walking on stilts. Case in point… this Pepperbery dress.

A dropped waist works the opposite way, elongating the torso – and lots of top heavy women are short-waisted- and putting the focus on your hips.

Now, I’ve already gone at length about my dislike of empire waistlines and I admit they can work in some instances so I’ll leave it at that! Oh the things you learn while watching reality TV…

Why bra epiphanies are like the big chop

In case you haven’t noticed, natural afro hair has grown more and more popular in the past decade. I’ve been wearing my hair in its natural texture most of my life and in a way, it is not a big deal to me. I don’t assume that a woman rocking a fro means anything political by it. I don’t try to convert women with relaxers to a life of afropuffs and two-strand twists. As India Arie sings, I am not my hair. I am however fully aware of how complex and loaded the topic of “black hair” is. So I thought it would be fitting to write this post now, during black history month.

Long before I discovered the bra blogosphere, I’ve somewhat felt that there was a parallel between the relationship of black women with their hair, and the relationship of women of all ethnicities with their boobs. It is often messy, passionate and well… complicated.

This being a bra and boobs blog, most readers might not be familiar with the afro hair community. There is a whole world out there with boards, blogs, youtube channels and so on all dedicated to the glory of natural hair. I came upon it back in the early 2000s. While I was very excited to get tips and ideas for new hairstyles, I sometimes couldn’t relate to those new to that natural hair thing who felt self-consious or ambivalent about it. That is, until I drew the paralell with boobs. I think that some poster on a hair board mentioned how people were staring at her hair and I wondered why she thought that someone staring at her did so because of her hair. And then I realised that at the time, my first thought if someone stared at me was that they checked out my boobs. Now, that was not a completely paranoid thought, but one based on past experience. But then again, maybe so was the reaction of the woman from the hair board.

In natural hair lingo, the big chop is the haircut where you get rid of the chemically straightened ends of your hair. It is a very emotional moment for lots of women. Some who used to view hairdressing has a chore start to marvel at every kink and curl of their little fro. That can be compared to the bra epiphany of women who suddenly realise that they had been wearing too large a band and too small a cup for years and that their bras hadn’t done justice to their boobs.

More and more Black women choose not to straighten their hair. Still, they are a minority. Similarly, it is said again and again, that 80% of women wear the wrong bra size. And they’re not helped by all the bad information laying around and “fittings” by the likes of Victoria Secret. For lots of women, breaking out of the “Bra Matrix”, as Venusian Glow calls it,  or dumping their relaxer is a choice that sets them apart from the norm.

Then, there is the whole evangelizing thing. Some women get very enthusiastic about their journey and would like to share it with other women… which brings them on a quest to enlighten those still in the dark. As someone who hates unsollicited advice, I’m not too big on that. Still, I have helped friends with bra and hair woes in the past and I’m glad I did. And I must admit that zealous ambassadors often do a great job spreading the word and helping women so that they can consider all options before making their choice. And that, dear readers, is sisterhood at work!

Why I blog about H+ cup bras

If you’re familiar with bra blogs, you must have read that “cup sizes don’t mean anything without a band size”. You might also have read a much more accurate statement: “D cup only means that there is a 4 inch difference between the bust and the underbust”. In the same vein, an H cup implies around 11 inches difference between the bust and underbust. That is quite meaningful to me. Even though they have the same cup volume, sister sizes are not equal. In other words, a 28J woman will look bustier than her 40F counterpart, because what most people (including me) have in mind when they talk about boob size is the size relative to the body+the amount of projection, not the absolute size. The 28J bra will also need more complex engineering and will have a tougher job than the 40F bra even though they carry a similar weight.

I love lingerie and enjoy reading posts from bloggers with various perspectives, but when it comes to reviews, I have found that the conclusions of women in my cup size range were much more transposable to me even if they were much smaller or much bigger than myself.

I blog about the H+ cup segment, because I believe that women in this size range share some common experiences and challenges, regardless of band size:

• They are generally perceived as busty with all the implications it may or may not have.
•  Finding bras in their size might prove challenging and depending on their location, they might have no other choice than ordering on line. I feel for those in the 28 and under bandsize who suffer a double whammy here.
• Bras in their size might be constructed in a different way than those in smaller cupsizes.
• They will usually find some challenges in fitting regular clothes, especially button-down shirts, dresses and jackets.

 

Women wearing smaller cup sizes might share some or all of the above experiences, but for those in the H+ range it is pretty much a given. It is a segment of the market that has seen a lot of positive change in the past few years and I’d be curious to see a brand emerge that would specialize in those sizes.